What you Need to Know About Tape-In Hair Extensions

If you are reading this you are probably curious about tape in hair extensions. This ultimate guide answers all the questions from how much they cost to do they damage your hair (and more!) Plus, I’ve included before and after pictures so you can see the dramatic difference they can make.

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My Hair Extension Story

I’ve had hair extensions for over 3 years, so clearly I’m obsessed. It took me a while to decide to get them because I was nervous about the damage and the cost. My hair was fine and breaking but when I got engaged I knew I wanted to be happy with my hair at the wedding and extensions seemed like the answer. 

I got extensions installed (applied?) 10 months before the wedding because I wanted everyone, including myself, to get used to them before the big day. The goal was to look like me on my wedding day, not some glamorized version.

Melanie Hill, one of the top stylists in Chicago who specializes in extensions, gave me the confidence that tape in extensions would work for me, and that I would be happy with the results.  They have been a total game-changer.

Note there are different types of extensions, clip-ins, halo, tape-in, beaded, just to name a few. Some people refer to tape in extensions as permanent hair extensions because, as opposed to clip-in, you can’t just easily remove them. I don’t call them this because not only does the hair grow out, but the tape just isn’t permanent.

What Tape In Hair Extensions I Use

• HotHeads Hair Extensions  – Quality Human Remy hair
• 2 packs of 14”-16” Length – Each pack has 20 pieces of hair which make 10 complete extensions
• Colors #4 and #5 – I get different colors so there is more depth, and it looks more natural (not flat)
• Single sided tape and double sided tape – more details on this in the Application section below

Chicago Tape In Extensions Salon & Stylist

I go to Thomas West, located in Chicago, and see Mel.  Aside from her amazing personality (because when you’re looking for a stylist, that’s important), she is a hair genius.  Mel’s so experienced and knowledgeable, she keeps up with current trends and the newest breakthroughs and technology.  You can see some more of her hair magic on IG.

When I first started going to Mel I didn’t realize how busy she was.  One time I had to cancel an appointment and couldn’t get in until weeks later so out of desperation I went to another salon where they hadn’t even heard of single sided tape. As I said, Mel’s the best. I should gatekeep this but I won’t, book 2 appointments in advance if you have a tight schedule.

Mel is honest and will do what’s right for your hair and make sure your expectations are realistic.  For instance, we were discussing beaded hair extensions and she steered me away (even though they were more expensive) because she didn’t think my hair was a good candidate.  I trust her explicitly, and she’s got great taste.

If you are in Chicago I can’t recommend Mel enough. She’s offered a generous discount, which I’ve detailed in the cost section below.  If you aren’t in Chicago, do your homework because your hair can get messed up if not done properly.

Tape In Hair Extensions Before and After

I get my natural hair dyed, so the hair extension application process starts after that is completed.  Once the color is rinsed out and my hair is blown dry is when the fun begins.  If you don’t color your hair I imagine you would go straight to the hair washing phase.

The process is that real hair is sandwiched between two pieces of hair extensions held together by tape. A hair extension piece is positioned on top of a very fine section of real hair with adhesive facing down and a second hair extension piece is placed under with the adhesive facing up. It’s a hair extension sandwich with tape sticking together near your roots.

You rinse and repeat until you achieve the desired look.

Single Sided Tape In Extensions

Since I have very fine hair, Mel uses single-sided tape to ensure no damage is caused. Instead of two pieces of hair sandwiching the real hair, only one extension piece is used on the top and the bottom is just tape with no hair attached.  This results in less weight (essentially half) on your real hair and makes for easier blending.  

The tape with hair attached is matte and the tape without hair is shiny so Mel applies them upside down so the shiny tape is on the bottom. Matte is much easier to disguise in hair than shine. If for some reason the tape shows it’s a lot less noticeable applied this way.

Blending

When the hair is first applied, do not be shocked!  It will probably be longer than the final result and not look entirely natural.  This is another part of having a great stylist, blending is key. 

Prior to even buying the extensions you’ll decide how long and what style you want. Once the extensions are in the stylist will cut your extensions and real hair together, blending seamlessly.

How Much Do Hair Extensions Cost?

Hot Head extensions are not inexpensive, but I’m a firm believer in you get what you pay for.  The cost depends on what you are looking to achieve which is why a consultation is usually necessary.  I recommend asking the salon for a price range to see if it’s an amount you feel comfortable spending.

Like most things, the cost has gone up in the last year. I expect the cost may vary depending on where you live, the brand you buy, and the length needed. In Chicago, Hot Head Extensions are $450 per bundle for 14″-16″. I get two bundles, one in two colors, so the hair is $900 and that includes application and styling.

Mel has generously offered $100 off for first-time half or full head of hair extensions and $25 off new color clients if you mention Very Obsessed.  It’s an amazing deal and she’s booked and busy, so take advantage if you can!

How Long Do Hair Extensions Last

According to the Hotheads website, their tape in hair extensions can be “reapplied up to 3 times, while still looking and feeling amazing. Clients will get 8 to 10 weeks of wear from each application.”

I generally go every 7 weeks which works for me because there is some outgrowth and I need to get my natural hair color touched up. If you don’t color your hair you could probably extend them longer.

During the height of  COVID, I went 18 weeks which was not ideal, but it did show me that I can stretch it out if need be, maybe closer to 10 weeks if I had to.  In the below photo, you can see how the extensions look when they are grown out (when first applied they are right up to the scalp.)  The extensions will feel loose-ish because the hair is now probably an inch away from the scalp so there’s more movement.  But don’t worry, even when it’s grown out you still aren’t able to see the tape or tell that you have extensions.  

If you do the math, once you get them applied and say you reapply 3 times every 10 weeks that means you would be buying new hair roughly every 7-8 months.  The new hair is the biggest investment since you are buying the hair instead of paying for regular maintenance.  Typically my schedule is buying hair every 8 months but due to COVID I went 10 ½ months this last time between buying new hair and it still looked good.

Hair Extension Maintenance & Removal

At-Home

Maintenance is really important to keep extensions looking good.  It’s not hard, but crucial and can extend the life of the hair too.  

I double-cleanse my hair every time I wash.  First I shampoo the crown of my head, hairline, and ends and rinse. Then I am very deliberate with washing around the tape. I focus on my scalp and wash the hair near the tape.  I take my extensions and sandwich them in between my fingers to ensure I’m getting them clean and removing any product build-up. 

Yes, washing my hair takes longer than it used to, but I’m now only doing it once to twice a week instead of every other day.  I apply conditioner to my scalp and my ends, staying away from the tape.

I use hair products but stay away from oils anywhere close to the tape.

Tape in hair extensions need to be blown dry.  The days of air drying are over, so if that’s something you can’t fathom then they might not be right for you.  If you don’t blow dry then you risk the tape getting gummy.  If you’ve ever seen a piece of wet Scotch tape then you know what I’m talking about.  This is another step that takes more time, especially because I’ve got more hair, but it’s less frequent.  Taking good care of the hair will pay off in the long run.

Salon

The difference between salon maintenance and removal is that the extensions get reapplied during maintenance, but don’t during removal only. The extensions are removed from my head every time I go in so they (and my real hair) can be maintained.

The stylist takes each section, sprays a liquid that helps the adhesive loosen up, and then peels the tape apart, sometimes using the end of a rat tail comb for assistance.  When all the hair is taken out that’s when my natural hair gets dyed.  During that same time, the real hair is taken to the back and maintained (old tape is taken off, washed, and dried).  When my color is finished processing and my hair is blown dry then it’s similar to the application process above.

Do Hot Head Extensions Damage Your Hair?

This was one of my biggest concerns because I went into the process with already very damaged hair.  I have naturally curly hair and after having a Brazillian blowout years ago followed by a Keratin treatment I had some pretty severe damage.  Because I was getting older and my hair is genetically fine, it just wasn’t growing back the way I wanted.  I was in a cycle of heat styling and then putting my hair in a ponytail, further damaging it.  What my hair needed was a break from the vicious cycle.  

I was assured that extensions wouldn’t damage my hair if done properly and that’s exactly what happened.  Mel does a great job with the application, maintenance, and styling, taking into consideration the special attention my fine hair needs.  And for my part, I take care of it properly at home.  The below pictures were taken 20 months apart with extensions the whole time.  You can see in the before how the ends of my hair were so fine and brittle and damaged, breaking off.  In the after photo, you can see how it’s all one length and much healthier.

FAQ’s

Can you put your hair up?

• When the extensions are brand new they will be tight to your scalp so you won’t want to be changing their position by 180°. That’s not to say you can’t pull your hair back, I frequently do a low ponytail or bun. I just make sure anything I do is not too tight because I don’t want to put any extra pressure on my real hair. 
• I really can’t ever put my hair in a top knot, inevitably you would see the tape. However, if you have thick hair and are just doing extensions for length then you might be able to get away with it. Other types of extensions may allow you to put your hair up but those aren’t generally recommended for fine hair.

How do they feel?

• Just sitting here I can’t feel the extensions but if you put your hand in your hair then you can feel where the little pieces of tape are.  If you are newly dating someone it might be a little awkward, but the actual hair feels completely natural since it is real and high-quality Remy. 

Do they hurt?

• When I first get them my scalp is a little sore, not like a headache, like if you had a formal updo for a few hours.  That goes away in like a day or so.  

Did I do anything else to improve my hair?

• I substantially reduced gluten and dairy from my diet after getting the results back from a food sensitivity test.  I now take Ritual Vitamins, check out my full review here, but that only started 6 months ago so didn’t impact the results from the photos.

Final Thoughts

Am I ever going to have naturally super thick hair? No, because that’s not in the genetic cards for me.  What tape-in extensions have done for me is to help my confidence.  They give me longer, thicker natural-looking hair while letting my real hair grow healthy with minimal damage.  The things I don’t love are the price and the at-home maintenance but for me, the pros by far exceed the cons.

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Salon Photos: Melanie Hill